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10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Concrete Contractor

Concrete is permanent and unforgiving. Once poured, there's no affordable way to fix a slab that's the wrong thickness, has no rebar, or was poured without proper subgrade preparation. The cheapest concrete bid almost always means the thinnest slab with the least reinforcement -- corners you'll never see until the concrete cracks and settles.

10 QuestionsPrintable ChecklistAvg Cost: $1,500 - $10,000 per job

Questions to Ask

1What slab thickness and PSI strength will you pour, and how did you determine that?

Why It Matters

A 4-inch driveway at 3,000 PSI cracks under heavy vehicles. A 6-inch slab at 4,000 PSI handles anything residential. The specification should match the intended use.

Red Flag

They quote a 4-inch residential driveway without asking what vehicles you park there, or they can't tell you the PSI strength of the concrete they order.

Pro Tip

For driveways: minimum 4 inches thick, 4,000 PSI. For garage floors and areas with heavy loads: 5-6 inches, 4,500 PSI. For patios and walkways: 4 inches, 3,500 PSI is adequate.

2What type of reinforcement will you use -- rebar, wire mesh, or fiber?

Why It Matters

Reinforcement holds concrete together when it cracks (and all concrete cracks eventually). Rebar on chairs provides the strongest reinforcement; wire mesh often sinks to the bottom during pour and provides minimal benefit.

Red Flag

They skip reinforcement entirely, or they lay wire mesh on the ground without chairs to hold it at mid-slab height.

Pro Tip

Number 4 rebar on 18-inch centers, placed on chairs at mid-slab height, is the standard for quality residential concrete work. Fiber reinforcement helps with surface cracking but doesn't replace structural rebar.

3How will you prepare the subgrade, and will you use a gravel base?

Why It Matters

Concrete poured on unprepared soil settles unevenly and cracks. A compacted gravel base provides drainage, prevents frost heave, and distributes load evenly.

Red Flag

They plan to pour directly on existing soil without excavation, compaction, or a gravel base.

Pro Tip

Standard preparation includes: excavating to proper depth, compacting native soil, adding 4-6 inches of compacted gravel base, and ensuring proper grade for drainage away from structures.

4What is your plan for control joints, and where will they be placed?

Why It Matters

Control joints are intentional weak points that guide where concrete cracks. Without them, concrete cracks randomly in unsightly patterns. Proper joint spacing prevents most visible cracking.

Red Flag

They don't discuss control joints, or they plan to cut them after the concrete sets (which works but is less effective than tooled joints).

Pro Tip

The rule of thumb is control joints every 8-12 feet, or at a spacing that is 2-3 times the slab thickness in feet. Joints should also be placed at re-entrant corners and changes in slab width.

5How long will you wait before allowing foot and vehicle traffic?

Why It Matters

Concrete reaches about 70% of its strength at 7 days and full strength at 28 days. Early loading causes surface damage, cracking, and permanent marks.

Red Flag

They say you can drive on it in 24-48 hours, or they don't discuss curing time at all.

Pro Tip

Light foot traffic: 24-48 hours. Vehicles: 7-10 days minimum. Full load capacity: 28 days. These times increase in cold weather. The contractor should also apply a curing compound or specify wet curing procedures.

6Do you pull permits for concrete work, and does your scope require one?

Why It Matters

Many jurisdictions require permits for driveways, foundation work, and sidewalks in the right-of-way. Unpermitted concrete work can result in forced removal.

Red Flag

They say permits aren't needed without checking your local requirements.

Pro Tip

At minimum, check whether your municipality requires a right-of-way permit for driveway aprons that connect to the street. Foundation-adjacent concrete often requires a building permit.

7What finish options do you offer, and how do they affect durability and maintenance?

Why It Matters

Stamped concrete looks impressive but requires periodic resealing. Broom finish is the most durable and slip-resistant. Exposed aggregate provides grip but traps dirt.

Red Flag

They push the most expensive decorative option without discussing maintenance requirements.

Pro Tip

Broom finish for driveways and sidewalks is the most practical choice. If you want decorative concrete, budget for resealing every 2-3 years to maintain the appearance and prevent surface deterioration.

8What happens if the concrete cracks within the first year?

Why It Matters

Some cracking is normal, but wide cracks, uneven settlement, or cracking outside control joints within the first year usually indicate an installation problem.

Red Flag

They say all concrete cracks and offer no warranty, or the warranty excludes cracking entirely.

Pro Tip

A reasonable warranty covers structural cracking (wider than 1/4 inch) and uneven settlement within the first year. Hairline cracks at control joints are normal and not a defect.

9How do you handle drainage so water doesn't pool on the new surface or flow toward my foundation?

Why It Matters

Flat or poorly graded concrete creates puddles, ice hazards, and can direct water toward your foundation. Proper slope is critical and must be planned before pouring.

Red Flag

They don't discuss slope or drainage, or they plan to pour a flat slab adjacent to your house.

Pro Tip

Concrete should slope at minimum 1/8 inch per foot away from structures. Driveways should have either a crown or side-to-side slope to prevent water from pooling.

10Can you provide references and photos from similar projects completed in the last six months?

Why It Matters

Concrete work is visual and permanent. Photos of recent work show the contractor's quality of finishing, joint placement, and edge work.

Red Flag

They have no photos of recent work, or all their examples are from years ago.

Pro Tip

Ask to see stamped and standard finish examples if you're choosing between options. Drive by a recent project in person if possible -- you can see the finish quality, joint placement, and edge detail from the street.

Bonus Tips for Hiring a Concrete Contractor

  • Get bids in writing that specify slab thickness, PSI, rebar size and spacing, and gravel base depth. A bid that says only 'pour concrete driveway' leaves too much to interpretation.
  • Avoid concrete work in extreme heat (above 90F) or freezing temperatures. Both conditions compromise concrete strength and increase cracking risk.
  • Ask whether they pour concrete from their own trucks or subcontract the pour to a ready-mix company. Either is fine, but you want to know who's responsible if the mix is wrong.
  • For large projects, request that they arrange a pre-pour inspection with your local building inspector if a permit was pulled. This catches subgrade and reinforcement issues before the concrete arrives.

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